Extruder stepper motor not getting signals from board

[Imposter]

Hi
Just so we are clear, I do not want to use reptier it will not work, it keeps sending reset commands to the printer, No to be all cocky but IT is my career for the last 30 years so I do understand com ports etc.
Cura is set up and working fine, so we know it isnt a com port issue dont we.

Capture.PNG (28.86 KiB) Viewed 5903 times

I thought you was refering to the some Gcode i had written. I think there may be a language barrier issue..
I am unable to copy in the Gcode as it is too long.

PI3_calicat.7z

(57.21 KiB) Downloaded 281 times

Thanks

[GAQ]

Hi 'Imposter',
Something is being lost in translation here methinks...
I use Cura, Slic3r, and Repetier - just depends on what I'm doing, it doesn't matter that much, they all work.
Just a few notes...
The gcode file that is produced by the slicing program - Cura in your case - is actually just plain old text... It will happily open in notepad, wordpad or whatever plain text editor you use.
You can alter it, save it and save as either text or keep the '.gcode' ending (You need to keep the code ending for your printer to see it !)
Now, looking at the tall stringy mass that should have been a calibration cat thing, it looks like the z axis is so far out I would suspect that you have upgraded T8 lead screws rather than plain M8 x 1.25 rod.
The T8's require a mod in the config'.h file as their pitch is 8mm not 1.25mm.
Default axis steps... change 2560 (M8 rod version) to 400 (T8 leadscrew version)
What leadscrews are you using ?
Gerry

[_kaktus_]

Hi.


GAQ
I find it troubling that the bottom of the model is printed correctly.

It seems to me that it is built with more than one layer.

[Imposter]

Hi Gerry

Many thanks for the reply,
Yes i agree it was getting a little complcated lets say
What you say does makes sense from an engineering poit of view and as i was trying to get across it move on the z plane far more than the .3 that i was expecting.
Unfortunatley, i havent changed anything, it is completley stock, straight from the box. It is definatley is T8 not M8.
I can imagine it being M8 it would be soooo Slow moving along the axis.
Anyway i have sent 2 Gcode commands over and voila it is printing. Awesome buddy

Many thanks indeed



Paul

[_kaktus_]

Conclusion,
Imposter copy contained inappropriate configuration, which caused errors.

[Imposter]

Conclusion - ACTUAL
Geeetech does not advise in its instructions that there is a variance in supplied parts (Leader Screws) and that its Firmware is dependant on supplied parts, which caused errors.

[GAQ]

Hi Paul,
To be fair, there are now a Myriad of versions of each Geeetech printer out in the wild.
There are kits going out with T8 leadscrews as standard. (Far better).
I'm sure I've seen instructions saying to check this, but very well hidden !
In fact, I got half way through my build only to find that the video I was also using didn't match the manual I'd printed off... I then found a later manual version and this DID match the video... so now I have a printed 'Hybrid' manual for building !
I'm just glad you're now printing.
I went on to discover that the printer head geometry had changed over time... so if you download a mod from thingiverse or similar, you may wish to check the date and look at photo's to see if it will fit your particular build...
I found that a thicker glass build plate stayed flatter and more level, but although I use a genuine BL Touch on each print, I manually check and re-set every 10 prints or so just to bring back closer to where it should be.
You can now use the cat to set the actual calibrated figures in your configuration.h file .
As for nozzles ?
I received a 0.3mm nozzle with my printer but changed this to 0.4mm (Very cheap M6 version)
Calibrating the extruder took time and effort, extruding slower than I expected to get accurate results.
I only print with PETG onto blue tape stuck on the glass bed, but it's working...
I continue to learn...
Gerry