* SOLVED * Huge problem with GT2560 board

[edautz]

I did some reseach:

I suspect the way to program the Amtel 1280 on the 2560 board is:

1: Using an external ISP, like a USBASP or arduino board, like nano, uno etc.
2: Compile the hex using Arduino IDE with Marlin C++ source and configured config.h. Check that the resulting size of the hex < 128K.
3: Remove all the connections and moter drivers of the 2560 board.
3: Connect the Arduino ISP or other ISP with the ISCP connection on the 2560 board using the LCD and SD kaart connections, mentioned in this post: https://www.3dprintforums.com/showthrea ... connection.
4: Burn the hex with Arduino IDE in case of an arduino board als ISP, or AVR dude in case of another type of external programmer. E.g. http://www.ladyada.net/learn/avr/avrdude.html or http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2011/av ... -contents/

I assume that I can read the flash content of the 1280, so I got a copy of the Original firmware in hex format. Never tried that.
Also I assume I don't have to change the fuses of the 1280. http://www.ladyada.net/learn/avr/fuses.html.

Can someone confirm my steps, so that I don't blow my 2560 board, making it useless.

Kind regards,

Edautz

[petrus_muc]

Hi edautz,

1. correct. Just double-check your isp connections (or better triple-check them ).
2. correct, but you have to tell Arduino IDE first to keep the compiled *.hex file (search google for how-to).
3. you can do as an added safety measure, so no other device is possibly interfering.
4. if you have a programmer which is listed in Arduino IDE (e.g. USBtinyISP) you can use the function "Sketch" - "Upload with Programmer".
Else there is a GUI for Averdude available where you can do the upload. You can find out the necessary status of the fuses in the file "Boards.txt" in Arduino IDE folder.
I don't recall if you can read the contents of the EEPROM with Averdude but I assume so.

Have fun !

Peter

[edautz]

Thanxs,

Very nice, so I can proceed.

Two questions remain:

Do I have to alter the fuses to burn the marlin firmware?
Is Marlin-RCBugfix_0423e93-PI3_Pro_B_3DTouch? Is this a good version?

Kind regards,

Edautz

[petrus_muc]

Hi edautz,

Fuses: not to my knowledge. Fuses are set before uploading the bootloader according to "Boards.txt". Then there should be no lock of any kind present.
Marlin-RC....: Just try it out, it's as good as any other as long as you have your config.h correct. You might have to experiment with which version of Arduino IDE it can be compiled. This is a real horror !!!
No version seems to be backward compatible and sometimes the Marlin version will not compile at all with a newer Arduino IDE. Therefore it's important to try it out first (verify) and only proceed if compilation commenced without error.

Best regards Peter

[hawth725]

Hallo all,

Bought the same printer last week, and ordered several parts to modify it for improving the quality and stability.

I got also a 2560 board with a AMTEL1280 AVR on it.

I want also unlock the EEPROM function, install a bowden extruder and install an 3D Touch sendor for automatic bed leveling.

Therefort I have to modify my firmware. Prontface is working with this printer with a baud rate of 250000 and reports (debug log) that Marlin 1.0.0 is installed.

I have several questions:

1: Do I have to burn the boadloader to update the firmware of this printer? If so, how to do that?
2: Wich baudrate do I have to use to program this board with arduino IDE?
3: Which version of Marlin is running stable and supports the 1280 AvR with support for 3Dtouch, EEPROM and is compatible with CTC Prusa I3 Pro B clone?
4: Is there an example config.h file available for this type of printer?


Kind regards,

Edautz

Hi, here's my comment from me that you can also try.

1) Don't bother about the bootloader.
2) Important for the Arduino was the driver. Make sure that you had an updated driver in your computer.
3) Use the older version of Marlin and Arduino. Your board uses the AtMega1280 chip. Therefore, select the 1280 processor and not the 2560 board as well.
4) In Arduino, select Arduino as ISP as programmer.
5) In your config.h file, make sure you choose the correct type of display you have. Otherwise, you might experience a blinking LCD after the firmware was uploaded. I believed you only have the standard Ultimaker type of LCD display. Therefore, you define >>> #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
If you upgraded your display into a bigger one, then define >>>> #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER. But you have to add the U8glib to the Arduino library to enable it.

Good Luck

[edautz]

Hallo hawth725,

Hi, here's my comment from me that you can also try.

1) Don't bother about the bootloader.
2) Important for the Arduino was the driver. Make sure that you had an updated driver in your computer.
3) Use the older version of Marlin and Arduino. Your board uses the AtMega1280 chip. Therefore, select the 1280 processor and not the 2560 board as well.
4) In Arduino, select Arduino as ISP as programmer.
5) In your config.h file, make sure you choose the correct type of display you have. Otherwise, you might experience a blinking LCD after the firmware was uploaded. I believed you only have the standard Ultimaker type of LCD display. Therefore, you define >>> #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
If you upgraded your display into a bigger one, then define >>>> #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER. But you have to add the U8glib to the Arduino library to enable it.

Good Luck

Can you be more specific about:

3) Use the older version of Marlin and Arduino.

Which version of Marlin and Arduino IDE do you recommend, for compiling and installing to this type of printer?

Kind regards,

Edautz

[hawth725]

Use the Arduino 1.0.4 version and Marlin I3 Pro B

[edautz]

Thank you all for your replies and support

I have to wait to perform the upgrade, tonight I blew A4988 stepper motor driver for the extruder during one of my first long lastings prints, due to jamming of the extruder. Odered a new one.

Kind regards,

Edautz

[hawth725]

Thank you all for your replies and support

I have to wait to perform the upgrade, tonight I blew A4988 stepper motor driver for the extruder during one of my first long lastings prints, due to jamming of the extruder. Odered a new one.

Kind regards,

Edautz

Did you try swapping out module first? Very rare that the driver module will go out because of extruder jamming. You can try to remove or dismantle your motor from the extruder assembly and run some test using pronterface (with the old driver module).

[edautz]

I did swap the module and replaced it with the module of the z-moter drive. Then the extruder is working.
I ordered also new metal extruder with an adjustable spring, because several people report on the web reports the original extruder is crap.
It jammed in my case after several hours printing

I orderred a DRV8825 stepper driver with heatsink as an replacement part (and some spare too). This driver module has better recommandations.

Kind regards,

Edautz